I'm sure all of us can remember the jam and coconut sponge squares served up at school dinners. If you don’t, I fear you missed out on one of the pleasures of early childhood and, as an unusual child, I would show my affection (and hopefully turn a few stomachs!) by referring to it as Blood and Dandruff cake.
To my recollection I don’t believe I’ve ever seen a pre-packed interpretation and so it came with great pleasure and surprise to see this offering from Baker Boys, who were responsible for a previously noted and delightfully nostalgic carrot cake.
This Coconut cake slice once again came in a sizeable serving and once extracted from its wrapper, I bit in with anticipation but disappointingly was let down. A light moist sponge, similar in texture to a muffin, gave way easily but had little flavour and seeming being ephemeral in the mouth. Worst was the jam and coconut topping, which could equally be described as a bland sticky substance topped with white flakes that apparently was desiccated coconut. These two aspects had no distinctive element or taste and seemed to exist only for aesthetics, whilst I presumed also that their aroma would be evident, yet there was only the slightest trace of stale brioche.
I was compelled to eat the whole thing believing it would sate my appetite, however the sponge is so fluffy and obviously processed that it solved nothing. To cap it off, the amalgamation of emulsifiers, preservatives and raising agents left distinct a coating in my mouth for a good 10 minutes after. Horrible.
Perhaps a little vanilla in the sponge, and a better quality, single fruit jam (Raspberry is the obvious option) would help all these woes, but its seems that Baker Boys try to mask the problems by instead providing a extravagant serving.
Leave it in the past, or save money by cooking your own!
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